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what did you do to your 944 today

ORIGINAL: Austin09 You don't need to remove the wings to clean or inspect. If you take off the sill covers then you can look from underneath.
thanks Austin but there is 26 years of crud and rust under there so I'll be taking the wings off and cleaning everything and rust treating . A little preventive maintenance now will hopefully preserve the wings and front cills a little longer[;)]
 
Peanut, wouldn't advise taking the wings off unless you really have to... (replacement sill is a good reason) They are really well stuck on with sealer which has to be cut through (worse rust protection as a result) and there is a risk of damaging the wings they are so well stuck!
 
thanks for the tip about the sealant mastic Rob .I'll use my USB boroscope and see how bad it is before getting stuck in.
 
It's a dilemma. Down side is the wings are hard to get off, but if you so then you can check for early signs of rust in the a-pillars. I didn't, but I think I would if I was having the car painted again.
 
mmm it is .... Removing thew wing I could cause more damage than there is there already but then again if there is significant trapped moisture and rust like there was between the sills and the plastic trim I'm going to lose the A post wing and sills [:(]
 
My wing was easy to take off. I've scraped off the old knackered sealant which looks original to me and I'll use some polyurethane bond when I fit the wing. It is easy to inspect the inside of the wing without taking it off either with the sill cover underneath, or takeout the wheel arch linings. The drainage is suppose to go between the door and the wing up to the sealant, but mine go into the abs unit because the sealant was knackered and the drain hole was blocked with bits of tree and all sorts! Surface rust treated and stone guards protected. Paint should stay gleaming for a while yet ;)
 
my ABS warning light has been on for a month now and I thought it was something to do with a missing brake pad sensor but alas no. Looks like I have probably got the same situation behind my wing .[&o]
 
Peanut, If you message me I'll give you some help with the ABS unit I've taken mine apart now and can help with diagnosis before you get to the removing the wing stage. It could be your ABS module (i have one of those spare and tested), your ABS relay (have one of those spare tested too). There is a check you can do at the computer unit which tests all the wires and sensors and you won't even need to take the wheels off or get your hands dirty. Beyond this is could be your relays on top of the ABS unit, a duff ABS motor, or seized pistons. If you let me know your symptoms I'll help you narrow it down, plus I have wiring diagrams I can share, plus photos of my car while I'm doing the job.
 
ORIGINAL: Austin09 Peanut, If you message me I'll give you some help with the ABS unit I've taken mine apart now and can help with diagnosis before you get to the removing the wing stage. It could be your ABS module (i have one of those spare and tested), your ABS relay (have one of those spare tested too). There is a check you can do at the computer unit which tests all the wires and sensors and you won't even need to take the wheels off or get your hands dirty. Beyond this is could be your relays on top of the ABS unit, a duff ABS motor, or seized pistons. If you let me know your symptoms I'll help you narrow it down, plus I have wiring diagrams I can share, plus photos of my car while I'm doing the job.
thanks Austin I hadn't really bothered much before now because I rarely drive further than the local Town and villages . I'll pm you in a few weeks when I hope to start working on the brakes and clutch hydraulics.
 
When the ignition is switched on the ABS light on the dash should illuminate. When the engine is started the light should extinguish When the car reaches 3-5 MPH the system should carry out a sensor and valve check sometimes a noise can be heard from the front OS wheel arch. If the ABS light stays on after engine start there could be a few reasons for this. 1. Brake light Switch Fault 2. ABS pump Relays 3. ABS relay G20 (944) G22 (968) 4. The ABS ECU Grounds 5. The ABS Wheel Sensor Grounds 6. The ABS Pump Ground 7. The ABS ECU If the light goes out with engine start, then comes on when reaching 3-5 MPH this is caused by a malfunctioning wheel sensor, ground or the sensor. Wheels sensors will only provide output to an oscilloscope for full diagnosis but it is possible to test them with a DVM. When the hub is spun as fast as you can by hand (direction does not matter) the sensor should output a very small voltage AC, they should all be about the same output, for the same spin speed. Checking the resistance will only show they are not open circuit. Checks 1. Make sure the toothed section on the rear of the hubs is free from rust and metallic particles and dirt. 2. Make sure the head of the sensor is also clean and free of dirt. 3. Check cable continuity for the ABS sensor cables. If one sensor puts out a significantly lower voltage than the rest replace it The ABS sensors can be tested at the ECU cable connection. Right Front ECU Plug Pins 21 and 11 Front Left ECU Plug Pins 6 and 4 Rear Right ECU Plug Pins 24 and 26 Rear Left ECU Plug Pins 8 and 9 It is also possible to bridge out the ABS relay G20 / G22 for testing Bridge terminals 87 and 30 in the fuse box. 968 Pins for the ABS Relay Pin 15 Is the voltage sensor from the Altenator ABS ECU Information Two ABS ECU's can be used in our cars but don't be fooled by the part numbers, I have had this checked out by OPC in Polaris which is their parts history system. The ECU that appears on eBay most often 928 618 119 05 This ECU was used between 1984 and 1991 for 928,944,944S2 928 618 118 00 is the later ECU fitted to 968, later 928 This is the correct one for our cars but both will work The later ECU is now only available as an exchange part at the paltry sum of £744.00 plus £200 parts deposit plus VAT Abs Pumps Modulators that can be cannibalised for parts. Porsche 944S2, 968 Standard Abs Modulator Bosch Pump 0265 200 038 Donor Pumps Bosch Pump 0265 200 043 Mercedes W124 Chassis from 190 to 500SL Bosch Pump 0265 200 042 BMW All sorts the light can also be illuminated by low battery voltage
 
Replaced the windscreen washer pump today, what a faff of a job that was. Apparently the tank should come out the bottom but it was not having it, I had to remover the coil, power steering reservoir the & the plug and relay from the headlight lifter motor. Thankfully the pump is a universal pump and only £7.99 Being divorced with no one to moan at me the screen wash reservoir was treated to a nice muck out in the dishwasher [:)]
 
Replaced the turbo auxiliary coolant pump this evening with a generic Bosch one from eBay. Cut the wire off the old one and fed it through the new plug before soldering it together. The connecting nozzles to the hoses are slightly bigger than the old ones but the hoses still fit on - with a bit more effort. Annoyingly the seller is now knocking them out for £39.99 delivered after I paid £52.99 last week - grrrr. Turned up pretty quickly too - from Latvia!
 
flippin eck Martin[:D] thats fantastic....... thank you. This should be made a sticky
ORIGINAL: Waylander When the ignition is switched on the ABS light on the dash should illuminate. When the engine is started the light should extinguish When the car reaches 3-5 MPH the system should carry out a sensor and valve check sometimes a noise can be heard from the front OS wheel arch. If the ABS light stays on after engine start there could be a few reasons for this. 1. Brake light Switch Fault 2. ABS pump Relays 3. ABS relay G20 (944) G22 (968) 4. The ABS ECU Grounds 5. The ABS Wheel Sensor Grounds 6. The ABS Pump Ground 7. The ABS ECU If the light goes out with engine start, then comes on when reaching 3-5 MPH this is caused by a malfunctioning wheel sensor, ground or the sensor. Wheels sensors will only provide output to an oscilloscope for full diagnosis but it is possible to test them with a DVM. When the hub is spun as fast as you can by hand (direction does not matter) the sensor should output a very small voltage AC, they should all be about the same output, for the same spin speed. Checking the resistance will only show they are not open circuit. Checks 1. Make sure the toothed section on the rear of the hubs is free from rust and metallic particles and dirt. 2. Make sure the head of the sensor is also clean and free of dirt. 3. Check cable continuity for the ABS sensor cables. If one sensor puts out a significantly lower voltage than the rest replace it The ABS sensors can be tested at the ECU cable connection. Right Front ECU Plug Pins 21 and 11 Front Left ECU Plug Pins 6 and 4 Rear Right ECU Plug Pins 24 and 26 Rear Left ECU Plug Pins 8 and 9 It is also possible to bridge out the ABS relay G20 / G22 for testing Bridge terminals 87 and 30 in the fuse box. 968 Pins for the ABS Relay Pin 15 Is the voltage sensor from the Altenator ABS ECU Information Two ABS ECU's can be used in our cars but don't be fooled by the part numbers, I have had this checked out by OPC in Polaris which is their parts history system. The ECU that appears on eBay most often 928 618 119 05 This ECU was used between 1984 and 1991 for 928,944,944S2 928 618 118 00 is the later ECU fitted to 968, later 928 This is the correct one for our cars but both will work The later ECU is now only available as an exchange part at the paltry sum of £744.00 plus £200 parts deposit plus VAT Abs Pumps Modulators that can be cannibalised for parts. Porsche 944S2, 968 Standard Abs Modulator Bosch Pump 0265 200 038 Donor Pumps Bosch Pump 0265 200 043 Mercedes W124 Chassis from 190 to 500SL Bosch Pump 0265 200 042 BMW All sorts the light can also be illuminated by low battery voltage
 
Club night on Monday, on the way up noticed central locking light on the console was on and would go off whatever knobs and buttons I pressed. At the pub the alarm sounds as I get out, tried various combinations of key in drivers door, passenger door, ignition and remote locking and got it to silence with me outside it. Investigated tonight, the plastic rod from the locking motor to the locking assembly clips over a ball and is secured with moulded in clip, which had broken off and hence the ball joint had separated. I clipped the joint back in and wired it closed for the time being. Hardest part is putting the door card back on!
 
Fitted the Porsche Classic radio it's probably cost more than the car is worth. Tbh it's disappointing it looks cheap compared to the Becker it replaced. Works ok Bluetooth was recalcitrant. Map is unbelievably tiny, no voice activation despite swearing at it. I can see no advantage over a Becker Indianapolis Pro or even better a Cascade (which I have in my 993). An expensive mistake.[:(]
 
Attempted to remove the old cracked stone guard - just made a awful gooey mess and managed to chip some of the paint as well well
 
ORIGINAL: awright944 just made a awful gooey mess
I feel your pain. I did a write up here: http://forums.tipec.net/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=17319&hilit=+stone A toffee wheel in a drill will get rid of the gooey mess. Good luck!
 
ORIGINAL: hotblack944
ORIGINAL: awright944 just made a awful gooey mess
I feel your pain. I did a write up here: http://forums.tipec.net/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=17319&hilit=+stone A toffee wheel in a drill will get rid of the gooey mess. Good luck!
Thank you I plan on tackling this later on in the week at the moment I've covered the goo with cling film so it didn't get covered in dirt and dust, it's a job I wish I never started
 

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