what did you do to your 944 today
- Thread starter colin944
- Start date
Dan944t
New member
also not today but few days ago finally got sick of seeing my 944 turbo head on my workshop bench at home and made a home preasure testing rig to check for any hairline cracks in the head. then on the phone to John at serdi with a few questions on my head sliming and guide work he did for me on the rebuikd process, and he said bring it down so they can cast an eye over the surface just incase they missed something and that’s why i’m getting co2 in the water jacket, so when i found out they have a got preasure tester which i didn’t think they did have , i took them up on the offer and drove down to drop it off and have a long chat about my theories and there’s.
cant express how glad i am that i’ve finally got the ball rolling as my life at home and with the kids and two new busineses i’ve been witking on launching has just left the 944 turbo day there neglected.
i also managed to buy a mint looking 944 turbo head which is a year newer than mine 1988 and not seen one for sale this good ever! so i have a back up now all be it i would have to swap over my oil valve. so the ball is deffinately rolling for sure and fingers crossed they find something but john reckons it could just be the finish wasn’t quite 100% ??? we’ll see.
i truly miss my 944 turbo now !!
my homemade preasure testing rig:
[link=https://imgur.com/a/wdcWGvm]https://imgur.com/a/wdcWGvm[/link]
my back up head:[link=https://imgur.com/a/KbHhtvo]https://imgur.com/a/KbHhtvo[/link]
cant express how glad i am that i’ve finally got the ball rolling as my life at home and with the kids and two new busineses i’ve been witking on launching has just left the 944 turbo day there neglected.
i also managed to buy a mint looking 944 turbo head which is a year newer than mine 1988 and not seen one for sale this good ever! so i have a back up now all be it i would have to swap over my oil valve. so the ball is deffinately rolling for sure and fingers crossed they find something but john reckons it could just be the finish wasn’t quite 100% ??? we’ll see.
i truly miss my 944 turbo now !!
my homemade preasure testing rig:
[link=https://imgur.com/a/wdcWGvm]https://imgur.com/a/wdcWGvm[/link]
my back up head:[link=https://imgur.com/a/KbHhtvo]https://imgur.com/a/KbHhtvo[/link]
g944s2
Member
Car failed MOT on control arm ball joint and both front side lights too dull.
I bought a new control arm from Germany and had it fitted so went to tackle the light bulbs today. First side was quite easy, screws were rusty but came out, changed the bulb and put back in with new screws. The second side is still in, there’s massive rusty screws in there, 2 came out but the 2 on the other side turn but don’t come out. I spent ages trying but have stopped now before I break it due to frustration, assuming I will need to drill the heads off them but I’m going to leave that for another day, very annoying but not surprising!
**Edited to say after calming down for 30 minutes I went back out and managed to pull it out with pliers, both lights now working so looking forward to my retest now**
I bought a new control arm from Germany and had it fitted so went to tackle the light bulbs today. First side was quite easy, screws were rusty but came out, changed the bulb and put back in with new screws. The second side is still in, there’s massive rusty screws in there, 2 came out but the 2 on the other side turn but don’t come out. I spent ages trying but have stopped now before I break it due to frustration, assuming I will need to drill the heads off them but I’m going to leave that for another day, very annoying but not surprising!
**Edited to say after calming down for 30 minutes I went back out and managed to pull it out with pliers, both lights now working so looking forward to my retest now**
Today I began my winter work on the 944 Turbo, carried the oil filled radiator into the garage I purchased from Amazon a couple of years ago when the central heating failed and closed the garage door behind me :shock: I've got a whole list of work to keep me busy throughout the colder months and wanted to start by cleaning up the rear lift points and trailing arm mount. Planning on de-rusting and painting the rear lift points first then moving the axle stands from the trailing arms, removing the rear suspension completely and then cleaning up the trailing arm mounts plus any other bits that need attention after removing the suspension. Will be using U-POL degreaser, Bilt Hamber Deox-Gel, Hydrate 80, a good quality primer and top coat such as the Eastwood Extreme Chassis Paint. So this is what the rear lift points looked like prior to me starting...
After a couple of hours with a chisel and hammer I'd removed most of the rust scale and the metal beneath seems to be solid, but I'm having a right job trying to get any wire brush drill attachments into the areas as it is very small.
One side looks a lot better than the other but I've only wire brushed the cleaner side (right / off-side). You might have noticed I removed the lift point extension bars which I believe are fitted to the S2 / Turbo (and possibly 968?) due to the extra clearance required when the plastic sill covers are installed. Either they have been replaced at some point during 30 years or they have survived pretty well considering they are right in front of the rear wheel! I was expecting these to be a real bugger to remove but after tapping them with a hammer and punch a few times they came out with the aid of a pair of vice grips and lots of wiggling (after removing the retaining bolt with the aid of a mini hacksaw).
Still need to tidy it up more before the Deox-Gel gets applied, I welcome any criticism or helpful comments :lol:
Still need to tidy it up more before the Deox-Gel gets applied, I welcome any criticism or helpful comments :lol:
Hey Paul - Hope you are well mate, I'm attacking it little and often until I've removed as much of the rust as I can before prepping and painting.
I spent some time looking on PET last night and it appears that the early (pre-1986) cars don't have centre jacking points according to the parts diagrams at least. On the S2 / Turbo the centre jacking points also have an extension plate which is bolted on with 4 bolts and is ludicrously expensive at £70. My car is much of an oddity as it only has a centre jacking point on the left / nearside and there is no obvious reason as to why, no visible signs of damage repair to the sill or floor panel. So I've ordered that centre jacking point for the right side without the extension which is a more reasonable £20ish and will get it welded onto the floor panel locally.
I spent some time looking on PET last night and it appears that the early (pre-1986) cars don't have centre jacking points according to the parts diagrams at least. On the S2 / Turbo the centre jacking points also have an extension plate which is bolted on with 4 bolts and is ludicrously expensive at £70. My car is much of an oddity as it only has a centre jacking point on the left / nearside and there is no obvious reason as to why, no visible signs of damage repair to the sill or floor panel. So I've ordered that centre jacking point for the right side without the extension which is a more reasonable £20ish and will get it welded onto the floor panel locally.
Noticed a lack of power when I last drove the car and a whistle sound. Aha, boost leak thinks I.
Spent an afternoon taking the inlet manifold off and checking hoses. Found a split hose but was on the non pressure side, found some slightly leaky OEM hose clamps.
Went for a spin to get shopping. Boost building better but no more than 10 psi.
Rebuilt the recirc valve, vac tested the waste gate.
Went for another quick spin and took a data log.
No more than 60% throttle shown, hence the lack of power
Checked the TPS, seemed fine, operation by hand showed 100% on the laptop.
Removed the mat from under the pedal ...
Grr.
On the upside I have no boost leaks at all now.
Spent an afternoon taking the inlet manifold off and checking hoses. Found a split hose but was on the non pressure side, found some slightly leaky OEM hose clamps.
Went for a spin to get shopping. Boost building better but no more than 10 psi.
Rebuilt the recirc valve, vac tested the waste gate.
Went for another quick spin and took a data log.
No more than 60% throttle shown, hence the lack of power
Checked the TPS, seemed fine, operation by hand showed 100% on the laptop.
Removed the mat from under the pedal ...
Grr.
On the upside I have no boost leaks at all now.
peanut
Active member
You can get rubber or polyurethane pads that screw into the jacking points which keep ramp and jacking pads away from the sills preventing damage. Ideal to put them in for MOTs [link=https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274334999944?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&customid=274334999944_1&toolid=11000&campid=5338771593]https://www.ebay.co.uk/it...&campid=5338771593[/link]
dlknight said:Hey Paul - Hope you are well mate, I'm attacking it little and often until I've removed as much of the rust as I can before prepping and painting.
I spent some time looking on PET last night and it appears that the early (pre-1986) cars don't have centre jacking points according to the parts diagrams at least. On the S2 / Turbo the centre jacking points also have an extension plate which is bolted on with 4 bolts and is ludicrously expensive at £70. My car is much of an oddity as it only has a centre jacking point on the left / nearside and there is no obvious reason as to why, no visible signs of damage repair to the sill or floor panel. So I've ordered that centre jacking point for the right side without the extension which is a more reasonable £20ish and will get it welded onto the floor panel locally.
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