what did you do to your 944 today

[Kongsodoken]

had a fault with the oil level been showing a warning light even though the oil level is correct

so I changed the circuit board in the cluster -easy job and problem fixed []

 

[Frenchy]

Kings, where did you get the part as I get that ocassionaly ?

 

[Kongsodoken]

Kings, where did you get the part as I get that ocassionaly ?

apparently its a common problem -mine started by the oil light coming on occasionally -thought I was burning oil

then it came on permanently- on startup its OK then 2 mins down the road it comes ON

got the board on Ebay but there are 4 different versions I have a 1991 turbo and needed version 3 of 4

 

[Frenchy]

Cheers, what search did you do to find them ?

 

[scam75]

Fitted a previously owned blower motor the other day. Will refurb my squeaky original, all quiet now. Fitted a previously owned but good condenser, survived a trip from Poland to get here, new seals and a re-gas and we're all good again, batwing refitted with shiny new speed clips and screws. Fitted previously owned but good back box heat shield (no more rattles), NLA from Porsche for my model, new brake backing plate for NSF finally fitted (been in shed for 2 years [&:]), new OSF wheel bearing fitted (bit hard to source these actually just now, Frazerpart came up trumps), oil change, sorted small oil pressure gauge drip with newly cut spanner (awkward bugger to get tight), timing belt and balance belt changed, Gates items, no longer noisy like the previous Conti-tech balance belt, MOT passed no advisories! All set for some nice summer motoring now. []

Stuart

 

[Waylander]

Wheel bearing hard to get ?

I went down the bearing shop for mine,

SKF bearings for both wheels and seals about 45 quid

common sizes had loads in stock

 

[vitesse]

Had the shiny new Dansk SS back box & pipe fitted last week by my friendly Tyre company,Willow Tyres ,Crosby to my wife's 924S-1st replacement from new at 115K miles-only took them 1/2 hour & needed some torch heat on the middle bracket bolts,otherwise problem free,no alignement or support problems & the sound is a deeper burble-also supplied the new CI cone for the joint.

Worth the £20 & saved me struggling on my back for possibly 2hrs in the cold & rain.It took at least that time when I did the same on my 924S 3 yrs ago especially the centre mount that hangs from the torque tube & has to be moved slightly.

Exhaust cost £191 inc VAT from ECP.

Yesterday fitted a new Mann air filter to her car -1st for ages -the old one looked hardly used! Cost £34 from CES & had to be transferred from their IOM branch as no other in their system-seemed expensive but having ordered it with 2 Bosch oil filters -£12.10 total -had to go with it.

 

[Waylander]

your not gonna be very happy

The Air filter from Porsche is £10.91 Inc Vat 944 110 186.02

 

[Endoman]

Still having intermittant electrical problems. Occurs when battery is not fully charged. Checked altenator output with oscilloscope aok. Will stall then not restart (no tach bounce) swap DME relay, starts.

Test old relay works fine, stick it back, starts runs all day. Crank sensor tested with o/c spot on. It's got to be a bad contact somewhere or a poor wire. Sod to find. Not related to temp of relay and I've resoldered one. Next thing to check is wiring in crank sensor plug. The hesitation on part throttle has gone and she runs like a train. (not Southern Rail) I've got something simpler on the way from the States to play with.

 

[Waylander]

get a couple of new plugs from brandshatch performance, replace the loom end of the crank sensor connection

 

[peanut]

Still having intermittant electrical problems. Occurs when battery is not fully charged. Will stall then not restart (no tach bounce) swap DME relay, starts.

Test old relay works fine, stick it back, starts runs all day. Crank sensor tested with o/c spot on. It's got to be a bad contact somewhere or a poor wire. Sod to find.

Its been many years since I advised on these sort of issues and my memory is not what it once was but....

I would start by removing and cleaning the ECU earths . There is a ECU earth point under the dash ,below the fuse relay box and also along the NS chassis rail. From memory I believe these are MP2 & MP3 These earths are critical as the ECU uses them to earth itself the DME relays ,injectors ,fuel pump etc Also clean the block to bulkhead earthing strap MP9 & MP10

12v+ Power for the fuel injection & ignition system and the ECU is supplied direct from the battery via the ignition switch to terminal 30 on the DME relay base. It is a permanently ON non-switched supply and should be the first check with all non start issues. No 12v on terminal 30 ?....no start no run.!

The first DME relay switch has a permanent earth -0v (pin 85) and should be the second check.

Power to the first relay switch is supplied to pin 86 on the DME relay base when the ignition is switched on This should be the third check.

(If the first relay switch has no power or a poor or missing earth then the 12v+ sitting on terminal 30 of the DME relay base will not be switched to the fuel injectors, fuel pump, ECU, and other components in the fuel & ignition system.)

Provided the ECU 'sees' the necessary feedback from all the sensors it will ground the second DME relay switch (pin 85B ) completing the fuel and ignition system supply.

It is extremely unlikely that your hard start issues are due the the crank position sensor (CPS) but its worth checking the connections .

An easy and instant test of the whole system can be made by removing the DME relay and connecting the 3x larger female spade connector terminals 87b ,87 and 30 on the DME relay base with a 3x way bypass made of wire. The fuel pump should run continuously and if the car then starts and runs on the ignition then you have temporary 'get you home' solution and have eliminated a lot of unnecessary component checks as well.

 

[scam75]

Wheel bearing hard to get ?

I went down the bearing shop for mine,

SKF bearings for both wheels and seals about 45 quid

common sizes had loads in stock

Euro, Dingbro etc no stock Martin. I agree it's a fairly common bearing!

Stuart

 

[Eldavo]

get a couple of new plugs from brandshatch performance, replace the loom end of the crank sensor connection

They‘re Tyco Junior Power Amp connectors. Once you know what to look for eBay is plentiful.

 

[vitesse]

Got my bills crossed,doh!-the air filter was £12 odd,the oil filters were £17 odd with no postcharges,

 

[Endoman]

All mentioned earths cleaned. Bridging the DME relay did not cure the part throttle misfire which had been a problem but that has not as yet reappeared. I did a long run today monitoring the voltage with one of those cig lighter ones. Held 13.8 to 14.2, dash guage read just below 14 car ran cleanly with several restarts during the journey. Previously the misfire would occur if the voltage dropped to 12 on the dash guage and it would restart and idle cleanly. Closed throttle during the misfire would stop it so I changed the TPS although on hacking it apart no fault was found. The non-start situation happens in slow manoevering situations like parking or pulling away at a junction (not fun). Swap the DME relay (I have several) and it will start. It's a quantum fault when you look at it it disappears. I have a spare ecu and afm both tested and functional substitution made no difference. Good battery and new earth strap. So my conclusion is a bad contact somewhere the jolt from a stall breaks continuity somewhere and the DME relay is not getting a signal. The problem is when you check it no fault is found and it will restart.

 

[peanut]

It does sound like an intermittent connection issue doesn't it.

Its pretty clear that every time you have observed any change it has been when plugging in or removing one of your DME relays.

As the car seems to run well for most of the time with either DME relay fitted and the stalling fault seems to disappear when changing the DME relay I would lift the relay fuse board and check all the connections to the base of the DME relay which is connector E on my 944S2 .

Check the relay base and the loom connector particularly the 2 thin black/yellow wires that exit the E relay base which is a loop for fitting an Immobiliser.

If you have an immobiliser fitted to the black /yellow wires try cutting both wires and joining the tails together as they would have been when the car was new. this video might help [link=https://youtu.be/H4y_tdyuhdE]https://youtu.be/H4y_tdyuhdE[/link]

 

[Endoman]

I have seen the video but couldn't work out how to remove the connector block. I removed a Clifford alarm/immobiliser a while ago and used that bridging wire with my replacement. I think you are right the problem is most likely a bad contact to the DME relay.

 

[peanut]

the plug is very tough plastic so it will take a bit of force without damage. There is a plastic nib on the fuse/relay E recepticle which you need to depress with a screwdriver whilst pulling or prising the connector out.

If you didn't solder on your new immobiliser wires I suspect that is where your issue might lie.

 

[g944s2]

Found out that it’s true if you reset the trip odometer while pulling away it will break. At least taking the instrument cluster out is something I actually know how to do myself but it’s still annoying since I’ve always known not to do this in over 8 years of ownership!

 

[PSH]

Well, at least half true, it will only break if the plastic has become brittle with age....I'm always resetting mine while on the move, do it every time the reserve light comes on...

Pete