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what did you do to your 944 today

Yeah I do same Pete although never having replaced my odometer gears I try and avoid "moving" resets where possible!

Stuart

 
That’s good to know but also not good as I’d hoped one of the gears had maybe just fallen off but sounds more likely it’s broken so I’ll need to work out what I need to buy.

 
There are two types... 20x21 teeth and 20x22 teeth, IIRC the 20x21 accounts for over 90% of all 944 speedometers which I think was up to 1990.. best check though...

[link=https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2141933657]https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2141933657[/link]

Pete

 
PSH said:
There are two types... 20x21 teeth and 20x22 teeth, IIRC the 20x21 accounts for over 90% of all 944 speedometers which I think was up to 1990.. best check though...

[link=https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2141933657]https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/2141933657[/link]

Pete

Thanks for that, I’ve just removed it and it’s an orange gear that’s in about 4 pieces!

 
colour doesn't matter.. it's probably that colour through age breaking it down...if anything like mine it just fell to pieces and was very soft due to the plastic losing it's chemical makeup.

 
Dropped mine off to have the head removed (details on other thread) then we can make a decision about whether the block is serviceable or needs liners (boroscope pictures not encouraging). I've always had some scoring in cylinder 2 however, noticed at last rebuild 60k miles ago. I'm hoping the boroscope pictures are making it look worse than it actually is. It does not use any oil that's noticeable. If the block does need work I do have a back-up plan. It will cost money however! [8D]

Stuart

 
PSH said:
colour doesn't matter.. it's probably that colour through age breaking it down...if anything like mine it just fell to pieces and was very soft due to the plastic losing it's chemical makeup.

Well I replaced the gear and put it all back together but can’t get the speedometer needle back in, I think I may have removed more than I was meant to when the needle came out, can anyone confirm from the photo?

[link=https://flic.kr/p/2mgJQWc]
51373934663_21ccd7e4d7_k.jpg
[/link]

 
Long time since I have been here, been busy with house stuff etc, still found stuff to do on the 944 though, quite a bit actually.

The car at one point had been used without a drivers side over mat and had a wear hole in the carpet, replaced it with a nice condition one from Justin Webb (944spares.com) over time an immoboliser was fitted and the led was fitted to a hole drilled into the switch console, I replaced it with a new one again from Jutsin and fitted the led to a blank switch cover, came back to the 21st century and fitted a Blaupunkt Stockholm head unit, DAB, Hands Free, Bluetooth etc, great bit of kit that looks period, topped the interior off with a new set of Porsche overmats ££.

Yesterday new belts rollers and tensioners, oil (Royal Purple HPS 10/40) lots of zinc and keeps great oil pressure when hot at tick over, new turbo to hard pipe hose, distributor cap and rotor arm (Bosch Eurocarparts) recently repalced plug leads with new Beru items courtesy of David Chapman.

New flexible fuel lines including damper line from Dev Lyon in California.

New radiator tank cap.

Oh and a new air freshener.

Should be good for a few years now, 195 miles between MOT's.

Really need to use it now 😉

 
scam75 said:
Dropped mine off to have the head removed (details on other thread) then we can make a decision about whether the block is serviceable or needs liners (boroscope pictures not encouraging). I've always had some scoring in cylinder 2 however, noticed at last rebuild 60k miles ago. I'm hoping the boroscope pictures are making it look worse than it actually is. It does not use any oil that's noticeable. If the block does need work I do have a back-up plan. It will cost money however! [8D]

Stuart

Well the head is off and cylinder 2 bore is a mess. [&:] . 3 is a bit ropy and 1 and 4 ok. Short motor getting removed next week to be sent to AMAC engineering (along with head) for Westwood Liners and JE pistons to be fitted as well as a light skim for the head. The HG was a mess with fire rings elongated on 2 and 4 where water was getting in. 10 years old the HG which is probably the lifespan of a Victor Reinz item. So this is going to cost a small fortune, water pump will be replaced too. On the plus side the motor will be nicely sorted once it's all done! Oh well...........

Stuart

 
I can highly recommend a Cometic HG, you'll be able to find the correct thickness to offset any material removed from head and block from skimming. Of course, choose your HG after the machining has been done. You'll be able to hold much higher boost once fitted, assuming a good tune naturally.

Pete.

 
blade7 said:
Are the pistons and rings knackered too. What oil/boost have you been running?
The pistons look fine. Not sure about rings as the pistons are still in situ. Certainly no obvious ring damage, they were new 60k miles ago at last rebuild. The damaged bore is only damaged about a third of the way round, left side of bore if looking from drivers wing. The pistons though will not be compatible with the liners being put in so need new ones.

Been running Total Quartz Racing 10w 50 fully synth for years. Running about 18 psi boost but with a MBC it peaks about 21psi in 5th before dropping back to 18/19psi.

A cometic would be a good idea, but haven't a clue what I'll need. This will be the 2nd light skim the head has had. The block so far has not been skimmed, but remains to be seen if that happens when the short motor is being rebuilt. Either way a slightly thicker than standard cometic would make sense. Will need assistance on this though guys from cometic users!

Cheers

Stuart

 
Hi Stuart

You'll find what you need in the Porsche manual, there's a drawing showing you where to measure to calculate the thickness HG required. If I could find mine I'd post the details but alas can't find the file. There's a tab front and I think also back on the inlet manifold side which you measure down from onto a flat surface which the head needs to sit flat on. When the head is machined this distance needs to be within a given range for the pistons to clear the valves, if below you need to make up the difference by the thickness of the HG. Porsche makes two sizes, IIRC 1mm for standard and 1.2 mm for a machined head below the standard range. You can go thicker than Porsche recommend if required, for example, my Cometic HG is 60 thou thick or 1.57 mm.

Regards

Pete

 
I expect that piston/rings has picked up in the bore, it will show when the piston is removed. Head gasket sounds like it could be boost related, If you've been running highish boost for 60k, maybe it's time to update the MAF/engine management? Or precautionary head gaskets every 20-30k?

 
Thanks lads. As much as that is peak boost, I very rarely run it at full chat. Also since the HG was done Blade, I had a WG diaphragm failure and put about 26/27psi through it for a very short time until I noticed boost gauge, I suspect this has hastened the demise of the standard HG.

I think after going to all the trouble I currently am, it would be prudent to get a slightly thicker cometic. I will ask the engineering company, who will be getting the head and block, to advise on HG and HG thickness.

Pete - Are cometic's made to measure thickness or is there a choice?

Cheers

Stuart

 
They have a pretty wide range for the 951, perhaps due to many special orders from the US builders. I had to get mine from the US.. IIRC i could have got awsy with 50 thou but went for the thicker to keep the CR ratio closer to stock. Even so IIRC the CR is higher at 8.2 which perhaps is one of the reasons for the quicker response, that and the higher CC...again IIRC I think mine is approx 2,535 or something close to this. Let's just say that my engine is a little different to most builds, lots of hidden extras...:)

Pete

 
Thanks Pete. Just been looking at their website, all made to order. Different thicknesses for 103mm bore and also 100.5mm bore. Assume I will just ask the engineering company for bore and thickness requirements then get onto cometic........

Stuart

 
Sounfs like a plan Stuart, all I would add is check that the company are aware of the Porsche guidelines, going thicker than required is fine (within reason), getting it wrong and going thinner isn't. Especially if it's so close that the engine turns over when checked by hand while cold but too close when warmed up when heat expansion and high revs stretch comes into play.

 

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