what did you do to your 944 today

[peanut]

hello to you too []...

yes it does sound very odd doesn't it.

I used to get very fed up with hammering the drivers floor down in my 944S2 after an MOT because the idiot testers put the lift pads on non structural cross members and the throttle pedal would stick down grrrrr so I stuck the pads in and told them not to lift anywhere else

 

[Giles_Paul]

I may get hated on for this...but I fitted a 6 speed 01E box!

 

[944Turbo]

I may get hated on for this...but I fixed a 6 speed 01E box!

no hate here - probably deserves its own thread!

Tony

 

[Giles_Paul]

I may get hated on for this...but I fixed a 6 speed 01E box!

It won't be one for purists, but the car is not in the best condition and the further I went down the rabbit hole, the more horrendous fixes I found. I eventually decided to build a road / trackday car to suit my preferences and this was the first step. I might start a thread, thanks [].

 

[944Turbo]

If we all had factory standard cars there wouldn't be much to talk about - we all love a project

 

[Giles_Paul]

If we all had factory standard cars there wouldn't be much to talk about - we all love a project

This is true. I will start a thread and update as and when I get a chance. Thanks for the kind words.

 

[PhilKent]

Forum is looking a bit busier at the moment which is great. Yesterday, after 19 years and 3 months of ownership, I have finally prized off the 1980's glass mounted mobile phone antenna from the rear hatch!

I've also removed the rear wiper (to repair, but decided I much prefer it without). Looks so much cleaner now...

 

[dlknight]

Forum is looking a bit busier at the moment which is great. Yesterday, after 19 years and 3 months of ownership, I have finally prized off the 1980's glass mounted mobile phone antenna from the rear hatch!

I've also removed the rear wiper (to repair, but decided I much prefer it without). Looks so much cleaner now...

I got around to doing the same with my mobile phone attenna whilst I was restoring mine in 2019 - much easier to wash and dry the rear hatch now with out getting caught on it!

 

[dlknight]

I may get hated on for this...but I fitted a 6 speed 01E box!

Very nice - is that from a 968 then? looking forward to the new thread with more details [s1]

 

[Giles_Paul]

Ive started a build thread, will include details etc in there as best I can.

 

[dlknight]

Rear jacking points looking a lot better - I've done a single treatment of Deox-Gel so far. Too busy this week but planning on a second treatment of Deox-Gel later on in the week, will then assess the metal to see if it is ready for the Electrox primer or need a third treatment. I emailed Bilt Hamber and got some advice from Pete Hamber who said that using Deox-Gel + Electrox is preferred vs using the Hydrate-80 product. Purchased a new toy to get into the tight spots, a Black and Decker power file, did an awesome job at removing some of the heavier rust where I couldn't get to it with a wire brush (also my emergency radiator to keep me warm in the garage).

I took more of the sealant off following this picture to make a more uniform area that would be easier to work with.

Left the Deox-Gel for 48 hours (Saturday to Monday), you might notice the blue paper towels, it occurred to me that I needed something to hold the gel against the worst bits up inside the gaps, so I rolled a few sheets of workshop towels in gel to get them completely soaked thru and stuffed them into the gaps (after brushing gel onto the bare metal).

Wire-brushed, washed, rinsed and dried with heat gun.

 

[PhilKent]

Great post. Always nice to see what folk are doing to protect their cars. It's a never ending effort these days. Looks like it's done a great job on that rust though. What are you using to replace the underseal? Will it blend in and look reasonably 'original' once finished? Look forward to the finished article []

 

[peanut]

thats such a lot of work..... kudos my friend ...but now that I have improved my welding and bodywork skills I would have cut out that metal and welded in new metal. it would have been a lot less work, much cheaper, stronger and longer lasting too. I've found that no matter how carefully we cut out or treat rust it still comes back again if the slightest little bit is left behind in awkward corners and hard to reach places.

best instructionals I know of by a really talented bodywork specialist is Trev . [link=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhpPkksmI4c&t=2452s]https://www.youtube.com/w...hpPkksmI4c&t=2452s[/link]

 

[PhilKent]

I agree with you about rust coming pack peanut. But it's not always possible to cut out every last bit and replace, not without a total strip and restore approach, so sometimes a preservation approach is needed. My welding isn't up to the job myself so I use a local metal basher who has the experience. It's a real skill.

Always happy to receive tips and suggestions though. My current welding is limited to arc welding and I've been toying with getting a mig/tig welder, but so much advice and options for tools available these days, sometimes best to get a 'personal' recommendation...

Looks like a great bloke with great skills and not a bad voice either ...[]

 

[Giles_Paul]

I have used R-Tech welders for the past 6 years and have found them to be great. I have a digital TIG set and one of the inverter driven MIG's and both are fantastic. Prior to that I had tried a mixture, from the dreaded Clarke welders to some pretty nice Miller sets. The R-Tech stuff is on a par with the latter in my humble opinion.

 

[peanut]

metalwork is a skill for sure as is good welding .I have been pants at both until I retired . With the help of youtube videos I've gradually built up some experience and skills and can afford some good tools and equipment. In the past I had to do everything on the street with borrowed or hired equipment.

After restoring a Transit Camper Van an an extremely rusty For Focus I am happy to tackle anything now. Buy yourself a cheap gas Mig welder you can get quite a good one for little more than £125 You definitely don't need to spend hundreds on a Mig welder in order to o some excellent welding. There is as much snobbery about welders as there is about cameras andd other equipment. Most folk equate spending a lot of money on top equipment with getting good results ,...its simply not true !. You can't do anything on a car with an arc welder and I wouldn't advise using a Tig welder for working with thin body panels for a novice weler.

Check out some of Trevs earlier videos he goes into great detail about fillas primers painting undersealing and other treatments of metal

 

[dlknight]

Great post. Always nice to see what folk are doing to protect their cars. It's a never ending effort these days. Looks like it's done a great job on that rust though. What are you using to replace the underseal? Will it blend in and look reasonably 'original' once finished? Look forward to the finished article []

Thanks Phil - first off it is all getting primed with some Bilt Hamber Electrox Zinc Primer, then I'm going to go over all the welds and joins with some seam sealer, the floorpan is going to get a coat of U-POL GUARD #10 Gravi Guard Stone Chip, jacking point and rear suspension mount are going to be coated in epoxy resin.

I'm also going to treat the entire rear suspension mount but have to do it in two parts as the car is currently supported on the trailing arm, so once I've removed the trailing arms I will support it via the re-painted jacking point.

Planning another chemical treatment of that area first with the Deox-Gel on the weekend.

thats such a lot of work..... kudos my friend ...but now that I have improved my welding and bodywork skills I would have cut out that metal and welded in new metal. it would have been a lot less work, much cheaper, stronger and longer lasting too. I've found that no matter how carefully we cut out or treat rust it still comes back again if the slightest little bit is left behind in awkward corners and hard to reach places.

best instructionals I know of by a really talented bodywork specialist is Trev . [link=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhpPkksmI4c&t=2452s]https://www.youtube.com/w...hpPkksmI4c&t=2452s[/link]

Yes couple of Saturday's worth and a few long lunch breaks from work dealing with that rust, I'm not sure you'd be able to cut much out of there unless you completely removed the outer and inner sills for access. I did look at replacing the jacking point (they are available new from Porsche) but they are good enough and it would have required removing many bits. The sills have recently been replaced, hindsight is wonderful and I should have had this all done at the same time, but you live and learn!

I'd love to be able to weld, I think that is probably on my long-term list to purchase a welder of some sort and get some practice in with some scrap metal. Everyone appears to rave about TIG welding, especially for aluminium? And I believe ARC or is it MIG welding is slightly easier to pick up?

 

[vitesse]

I've got an Italian made Cerbora MIG welder originally sold by BOC as a DIY model which with the correct gun liner will weld not only steel but aluminium& stainless steel with the correct gas or gas mix..

Its heavy .

Pretty much all the DIY sized welders are made in China anyway although designed in Europe- SIP are good but have a look at Aldi's website - their Ferex brand seems to be good kit ,designed & specced in Germany.

They also do Inverter MAG welders (stick) & IIRC , TIG & Plasm cutters.

You can buy dual MIG/MAG welders.

I also have single phase MAG welder which is ok for general fabrication but too crude for body metalwork.

However the small Inverter welders are brilliant,soft start even on rust & weld easily in all positions.

 

[PhilKent]

Took her for a test drive after converting to Wasted spark. Drives a treat after all the winter fettling, Not sure the WS gives a noticeable change to road driving, but running very smooth at the moment. Tidies up the engine bay a bit too.

 

[924Srr27l]

Took her for a test drive after converting to Wasted spark. Drives a treat after all the winter fettling, Not sure the WS gives a noticeable change to road driving, but running very smooth at the moment. Tidies up the engine bay a bit too.

Yeah I hope you didn't think it would give you more power? there's a lot of hype out there for many things and this is one of them,

Even the Citroen 2Cv has wasted spark from the 1950's!

An ignition refresh compared to worn & Tired components (Dizzu cap / Rotor arm / Leads 7 Plugs) would give you power back that

had been lost.

Wasted spark benefits are:

Less wear on parts, dizzy, rotor arm etc.

Coil loading has more time to recharge for a stronger spark at higher rev's.

More adjustable timing, stock ignition will only allow so much retard/advance depending on position of the rotor vs dizzy points.

R