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what did you do to your 944 today

When it's off, make sure the hooks are pointing to the drivers front wheel and mark up half moon on both the screws. Startying with the bottom one, turn it 270 degrees anti clockwise pressed in as far as you can, the top one turn 90degrees anti clockwise again pushing the screw in as far as you can. the half of the screw coloured should be both closer to the dizzy cap. i.e. the bottom half of the top screw should be on the bottom and the top half of the bottom screw should be coloured. Found this much easier. hope it helps you too.
 
ORIGINAL: Fat Albert Hi James, I have done some digging and apparently the later lamps are different to the earlier ones, apparently to do with the electric leveler. Porsch a part do a new one for £60 inc delivery so I will go for that, at least I will have one bright lamp! Thanks for the offer mate
For 60 quid you'd be mad not to. Had no idea they were that cheap.
 
so which part of the original pod could effect every gauge in that way ? I haven't seen a 944 pod assembly so i cannot theorize but it would seem to be a due to an electrical resistance somewhere otherwise it would surely only effect one gauge! Might be worth attaching a 12v torch battery or ac/dc adaptor to the pod and check it over with a multimeter.
 
I think the fact its done 160k and was in a damp environment due to a leaky windscreen, although there was no sign of corrosion. The pod connects via 3 ribbon connectors. I cleaned the connectors with switch cleaner to no avail.
 
Been to Reigate and back today and managed to squeeze 435 miles from a tank-ful!! It wa sonly just into the red as well, I had only doen about 12 miles with the light on...so could have done a bit more methinks!
 
Went into the garage and stroked its shiny red flanks, inhaled the old car aroma and checked the pressures on the new 17 inch wheels...holding up OK. They haven't half harshened up the ride though!
 
Changed the ARB bushes - one looked ok but the other had been soaked in power steering fluid foe a while!
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The outer one on the passenger side looked a little worn!!!!
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Washed and waxed it then fitted a layer of foam underneath the boot carpet. A previous owner had removed all the carpet backing for some reason [&:] Made a huge difference to the cabin noise [:)]
 
You'll get away with another few thousand miles on those................. [:D] Looks like you caught it in good time.
 
Fitted my new CAT3 electronic rust protection system. Done in an hour and all nicely contained under boot carpet and out of sight. Hopefully start paying it's way tonight as it's a miserable wet night in Glasgow. [:eek:] Stuart
 
Gave the S2 a bloody good clean inside + out, touched in paint chips, used a good paint sealant to protect paint over winter months, wheels sealed, trim dressed, carpets brushed. Edd
 
Continued trying to get to the clutch. Manual failed to mention that the gearlever needs to be removed to get the torque tube far enough out of the clutch to allow removal. After much struggling managed to get it back far enough to access the gearlever bolts and remove it,. This allowed me to twist the torque tube round so the bell housing at the back could clear the fuel tank enough to allow me to get it a few inches clear of the clutch housing. It would appear that I would have to drop the rear suspension completely to remove it from the car but fortunately it is very smooth with no play or axial movement - phew - so that's OK as well. Finally got to all 4 bolts on the clutch housing by moving the engine front up and down with another jack and thought I was there, but oh no. The clutch release arm shaft needs to come out as it locates in the release bearing which is located into the presuure plate as the clutch works in reverse to every other car I've ever had!! The release bearing is pulled out to release the clutch so the bearing is captivated into the pressure plate diaphragm spring. What a bu**er. The shaft is in there solid and refuses to move even with a jacking bolt. The only thing I can think of at the moment is a slide hammer or to undo the cluthc bolts one by one through the starter motor aperture and lift off the pressure plate as an assembly with the housing. Deep Joy.
 
topped up the gearbox oil... lost about 1/2 a litre since march due to a driveshaft leak. at least i now where the oily burny smell is coming from; the exhaust back box is misted with the stuff. booked it into motortune for the driveshaft cos im not doing that job on the drive[8D]
 
ORIGINAL: geoffbateman Continued trying to get to the clutch. Manual failed to mention that the gearlever needs to be removed to get the torque tube far enough out of the clutch to allow removal. After much struggling managed to get it back far enough to access the gearlever bolts and remove it,. This allowed me to twist the torque tube round so the bell housing at the back could clear the fuel tank enough to allow me to get it a few inches clear of the clutch housing. It would appear that I would have to drop the rear suspension completely to remove it from the car but fortunately it is very smooth with no play or axial movement - phew - so that's OK as well. Finally got to all 4 bolts on the clutch housing by moving the engine front up and down with another jack and thought I was there, but oh no. The clutch release arm shaft needs to come out as it locates in the release bearing which is located into the presuure plate as the clutch works in reverse to every other car I've ever had!! The release bearing is pulled out to release the clutch so the bearing is captivated into the pressure plate diaphragm spring. What a bu**er. The shaft is in there solid and refuses to move even with a jacking bolt. The only thing I can think of at the moment is a slide hammer or to undo the cluthc bolts one by one through the starter motor aperture and lift off the pressure plate as an assembly with the housing. Deep Joy.
Have you removed the M6 retaining bolt for the release arm? You could try attaching some mole grips to the bolt screwed into the release arm pivot shaft then whacking them with a hammer. Mine was seized solid too [:mad:] The only way I could remove it was to hammer it up from the bottom and out the top. It is a tight squeeze and it dug into the silver firewall material but it played ball in the end. And yes you do have to drop the rear trailing arms to remove the torque tube. Thankfully too mine was just fine.
 
I put the under trays back on that I had removed when fixing the wastegate, then I popped the Bailey dump valve on and fitted a 4" rolled end stainless exhaust trim. its only on a temp thing, the back box is stainless but had a bland scaffold pipe sticking out the back, this is only there until I can afford to get a custom system built.
 
Newly painted scratch free shiny badge panel reffited and a few miles to lubricate everything, visited the 220 and took the battery off brought home for trickle charging.
 
Used mine to take my bike up to Grafham Water and the fitted the new headlamp, can't wait to try it at night, be nice having one good lamp!
 
Thanks Rob. It's nice to know you're not alone! Yes I did undo the M6 clamp screw (not mentioned in the manual) but observed after first attempt to "pull the shaft out" as so wonderfully described in the manual. I didn't realise ti was possible to drive it through though as I can't feel an exit hole for it. I'll get the mirror on a stick on it and see what I can see. I've tried knocking it in to see if it would free it off but it is solid. I keep spraying it in the vain hope that it might free it but it's a steel pin in an alloy housing and been there a long time, my guess is that it's electroliticalled itself together and that it is a hopeless cause. Plan B for tomorrow is remove the spark plugs and undo the clutch bolts through the starter hole to hopefully remove the whole housing, release arm and pressure plate as an assembly to get it on the bench.
 

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